#Godzilla 3D... The King of Monster Paintings!!! A #Cre8time Adventure with Sandra Strait

Hi! Sandra, here today to share my version of Godzilla in 3D!

My hubby is a Godzilla fan, and we both loved the 2014 movie. I've been playing around with the idea of doing a 3D resin painting and decided hubby would get one for Christmas.

Supplies:

• Amazing Clear Cast Resin 
• Amazing Mold Putty
• Alumilite UMR Mold Release Spray
• 6x6 Shadow Box
• #4 Round Paint Brush
• #2 Liner Paint Brush
• 1" Flat Paint Brush
• Golden Fluid Acrylics: Micaceous Iron Oxide, Ultramarine Blue, Phthalo Blue, Hansa Yellow Medium, Naphthol Red Light, Green Gold, Teal, Indigo Titanium White, Zinc White
• Golden Hi-Flow Acrylics: Indigo, Shading Grey
• E6000 Glue
• Godzilla Reference Photos

This project consisted of two phases: 

• Molding & Casting two resin sheets--one for background and one for Godzilla
• Painting the background and Godzilla

Creating the Resin Sheets

My first thought was to just pour a layer of resin directly into the box, paint the background and then pour a second layer over it, and paint Godzilla. Now that I have experience, I may try that for my next resin painting. However, I've learned to give myself options when I'm experimenting.  Some of the options were very helpful, and some I decided not to use.

With this in mind, I decided to make a mold of the inside of the box, and cast two sheets of clear resin. This gave me several options.  I could:

• paint outside the box (made life so much easier)
• make changes to both layers as needed (I did this---a lot!)
• increase the distance between layers if I desired (I did)
• recast a resin sheet if I really screwed up (didn't need to)
• add lights (this didn't work out because the lights made everything streaky)

I had this shadow box, and I cut out a base background from something that I'd had around for a while.  Little to none of this base was meant to show, but if there were any gaps in the resin paintings, this would even things out.

Since I did have that extra background, I decided to make my mold smaller than the box. This gave me two more options:

• adjusting the two sheets of resin, as needed (I was glad for this)
• make this a free-standing painting without using the box at all (still haven't decided which way to go)
• making the edges rough for a more interesting free-standing painting 

I rolled out equal amounts of Amazing Mold Putty, parts "A" and "B" and smooshed them together until the putty was a uniform yellow. For more instruction about using Amazing Mold Putty, check out this video.

I spread out the Amazing Mold Putty, and thought "Hey! I could get double use from this mold!" So stuck some items in to create various mold shapes that can be used later.

Once this Amazing Mold Putty had set, I pulled all the objects out, and flipped the putty to the flat side. I mixed up more putty and created a ridge around the edges. Then, I mixed up my first batch of Amazing Clear Cast Resin, parts "A" and "B".  It's best to pour small amounts of the resin, to reduce bubbles, so I mixed several batches, pouring each one and letting it sit for about an hour before mixing the next. For more instruction about using Amazing Clear Cast Resin, check out this video.

Painting Godzilla

When painting on resin, acrylic paint goes down streaky at first, so you have to plan for it. For the resin background, I painted the entire sheet with Ultramarine Blue.

When the first layer of blue dried, I added a second.

The next color I used was Zinc White for the beginning of the clouds. You may have noticed that I listed two whites in my supplies section. Zinc White is more transparent than Titanium White. I wanted lots of blue showing through my clouds. For highlights and foamy water, I used the more opaque Titanium White.

I continued adding layers of Ultramarine Blue and Zinc White. I used Shading Gray and Indigo for the bridge and building shadows, and Hansa Yellow Medium and Naphtol Red for the burning buildings.

Then I switched to the second resin sheet, and started blocking in my Godzilla figure, using Micaceous Iron Oxide. This paint has mica in the pigment and is very rough and has shiny sparkles. Most of it was covered over, but it provided a nice, scaly effect for a base.

After laying down three layers of the Micaceous Iron Oxide, I used Titanium White to pick out the highlights, and the splash of water. That's newspaper you see underneath. Possibly an idea for another project!

I continued painting Godzilla using Teal, Green Gold, and Shading Grey for his scales. I used Teal, Phthalo Blue and Ultramarine Blue for the water. I did a lot of blending of colors on the canvas, as well as dabbing and dotting.

Several times, I laid the Godzilla sheet over the background sheet so I could see how well they went together. I ended up adding more white and yellow to the buildings and darkening the bridge. That alone justified my decision to have two sheets of resin, rather than to pour a layer over the background painting.

When I was happy with Godzilla, I propped up the two sheets, playing with the distance between them and moving them around. I tested them free-standing, and then tried them in the box.

I haven't decided yet whether I'll glue down my resin sheets into the box, or mold a stand and set them up as they are in the first photo of this post.

Either way, I think my hubby will love his painting, and I hope you do as well!

For more of my work in Amazing Mold Putty, zentangle-inspired art, and daily links to tangles, tutorials, and giveaways please visit my "Life Imitates Doodles" blog. ~ Sandra Strait

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get you in the mood to try some new things!? 

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